First, a quick geography lesson. The North Side Chicago neighborhood known as Wrigleyville really is part of a bustling, vibrant neighborhood called Lakeview, which is bounded by Irving Park Road and Diversey Parkway on the north and south, and Lake Michigan and Ravenswood Avenue on the east and west. And from a historical point of view, Lakeview was incorporated years ago as a separate village, but annexed by its big neighbor to the north way back in 1889.
Back to the present, the streets surrounding the classic baseball park where the Chicago Cubs play ball took on the name of Wrigleyville around three decades ago. The apex of the neighborhood, of course, is the intersection of Clark and Addison streets, where the Wrigley Field ballpark sits. Without question, 80-plus days a year, based whether the team makes the post-season, it’s Cubs baseball that drives activity. But even as the team’s fortunes ebb and flow, the neighborhood of brick two flats and vintage storefronts continues to evolve and charge forward; today, it’s one of the city’s most dynamic locales for dining, entertainment, shopping and nightlife.
An internet search revealed the neighborhood boasts more than 200 bars or clubs, and more than 80 restaurants. These establishments – along Clark and Addison streets near the park, and east along Broadway and west on Southport – run from casual to sophisticated, from funky to chic. Expect music that ranges from rock to reggae. Shopping options include tony boutiques and some of the city’s best consignment and artisan shops. Even on days the Cubs are not in town, the area is packed with diners, revelers and shoppers. Parking can be a challenge, so some opt to take the CTA Red Line, which has a stop one block from Wrigley.
A favorite of fans of all types is the Cubby Bear, a multi-purpose bar, restaurant and entertainment venue literally across the street from the ballpark at 1059 W. Addison St. This cavernous establishment is wall-to-wall with baseball fans (Cubs and visiting team) before and after game days, and it stays active on non-game days with great bar food, multiple bars and top-notch national and local musical entertainment. (Years ago, the late Johnny Cash took the stage here!)
Getting into see the Cubs play is an experience everyone should have, whether you’re a baseball fan or not. Tickets are hard to come by at list price, so be prepared to pay a premium. Reputable ticket brokers operate at locations near the ball park, but be cautious when buying tickets on the street.
Another option is to see the Cubs play from the rooftops at one of the dozen or so buildings beyond the outfield on Waveland (left field) or Sheffield (right field) avenues. Designed for group outings, these rooftop locations feature private club-like atmospheres with full food and beverage service, comfortable surroundings and unique views of the field of play.
Strolling the quiet, tree-lined streets nearby give a flavor of the genteel side of Wrigleyville. On foot, visitors will encounter tidy blocks of brownstones that look pretty much the same as they did when built decades ago. For a truly one-of-a-kind walking experience, head a block north of the ball park to Alta Vista Terrace. Located just north of Grace Street and west of Seminary Avenue, the block-long thoroughfare was developed around 1900 as a replica of the row houses from London’s Mayfair district. Each home has distinctive bay window and other architectural features. Called “The Street of 40 Doors,” there is nothing like it outside of London.
One might question whether is worth visiting, but Graceland Cemetery at 4001 N. Clark St. certainly is an exception. Located at Wrigleyville’s northern boundary, Graceland is the final resting place for many of Chicago’s foremost citizens. The cemetery opened in the 1880s when the land was not yet part of Chicago. In the years to follow, titans of architecture (Louis Sullivan, Daniel Burnham, Ludwig Meis Van Der Rohe), meat packing barons (Philip Armour), industrialists (George Pullman, Cyrus McCormick) and athletes (boxer Jack Johnson) were laid to rest there. Even the remains of Chicago’s first permanent white settler – John Kinzie – are in Graceland. The public is invited to take free, self-guided tours of the landscaped grounds and remarkable burial monuments.
One annual event that sets the neighborhood apart is the annual Gay and Lesbian Pride Parade. Each summer, the route along Halsted Street, Broadway and Diversey Avenue is electric with colorful floats and more than 400,000 people. In 2008, the parade will take place June 29.
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